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There was one unifying force which gripped all but Western Australia in 2003: the drought, which in many parts of central and eastern Australia was the worst for 100 years. As always, the final figures from the Australian Bureau of Statistics won't be released until January 2004, but the preliminary outcome started to appear by the end of April 2003 - earlier than usual, thanks to that self-same drought. Notwithstanding a six per cent increase in the area of vines in bearing, the average vineyard yield decreased by 21 per cent compared to 2002. This resulted in a crush of around 1.37 million tonnes, 14 per cent down on 2002. (Again, I must emphasise these are estimates, and there will be some variation in the final figures.) Droughts have a nasty habit of ending with floods, as the winemakers of the Barossa Valley were forcibly reminded in 1983. For a brief time (20 to 21 February 2003) it looked as if history would repeat itself as tumultuous rain lashed the parched regions of South Australia, with particular impact on the Barossa Valley. (Mudgee was to have a similar experience the following month, with serious flooding in parts.) Despite problems as the small berries soaked up the sudden moisture, particularly on the old, dry-grown vines, which led to berry splitting and the potential for disease, the weather turned dry and warm, humidity the only threat. Indeed, the weather from this point on through the end of February, and the whole of March was benign, if not ideal. The main problem confronting vignerons through South Australia and Victoria was the simultaneous (and relatively early) ripening of all varieties.
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The East Coast
The east coast, from the Hunter Valley north, had its earliest vintage on record. Picking of white varieties began on January 20, and was widespread within a few days. Yields were below average, but - particularly with the red grapes, which were also early - quality was high. Similar outcomes were experienced in Queensland, and South Burnett in particular. The growing season was milder and drier than 2002, the two significant periods of rain (at budburst and around Christmas) perfectly timed. The sugar and acidity levels at harvest were ideal, and there was no disease. This pattern of early ripening was as widespread in the coolest parts of eastern Australia as it was in the warmest. Thus Tumbarumba, in the Snowy Mountains, saw its grapes ripen four weeks earlier than average, chardonnay being picked in the latter part of February, compared to April in cooler vintages.
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Victoria
Southern Victoria (the Port Phillip Zone) had an excellent vintage, with the growing season climate returning to normal (in terms of temperature, though not rainfall) after a series of abnormally warm or freakishly cool seasons since 1998. Yields were mostly below average (though much larger than 2002), and flavour developed very early, well before chemical ripeness - always a sign of high quality. Here, too, it was a very early vintage, finishing a month early. Central Victoria is shiraz country first and foremost, and the drought conditions meant low yields but intensely coloured and flavoured red wines, picked up to three weeks early. The occasional bursts of heavy rain (which bypassed Southern Victoria) did more good than harm overall. Northeast Victoria experienced a very warm growing season, benefiting the King and Alpine Valleys in particular. The Rutherglen and Glenrowan areas experienced chemical ripening running more quickly than sensory/physiological ripening, so picking had to be delayed, resulting in a further diminution in yield.
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South Australia
Coonawarra more or less shrugged off the February 21 to 22 and March 19 (48mm in five to six hours) rainfall episodes. Below average yields (20 to 30 per cent) of white wines had good varietal fruit definition; while the cool to mild conditions before and after the March rainfall allowed ripening to proceed at a normal pace, notwithstanding the below average yields. Langhorne Creek is virtually drought-proof, thanks to the unlimited water available for irrigation, and vintage was close to normal in terms of both time and yield. Shiraz came in by late March/early April. Colour is exceptional, the flavour of the Shiraz a standout. McLaren Vale yields were down around 20 per cent overall, with normal amounts of the best chardonnay for many years, cabernet sauvignon down five to ten per cent, deeply coloured shiraz down 30 to 40 per cent. The yields, coupled with ideal ripening conditions, meant the vintage ran one to two weeks early. The Adelaide Hills, in common with other cool regions, welcomed the very dry, warm growing conditions. Both flavour and acidity levels were excellent, flavour developing early in much the same way as Southern Victoria; its key white varieties of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc promise much. The Barossa and Eden Valley's red grapes were affected by the February rainfall, and yields below the long-term average did not fully compensate. In a theme which may occur to a lesser or greater degree in other South Australian regions, there will likely be some red wines with high baume/alcohol levels yet showing some green, unripe streaks, a situation which occurred in 2001. The specific cause this year has been rapid sugar accumulation and berry shrivel in the wake of the rain and berry splitting. But it would be entirely wrong to take this as the rule rather than the exception. The Clare Valley, chronically short of water, felt the full impact of the drought, with yields 30 to 40 per cent down on long-term average. The conditions were warm and dry, accelerating ripening, and the miracle of the 2002 riesling quality (the highest since 1980) was never going to be repeated. However, quality will be good, with pronounced aromas and balancing acidity. The small-berried red grapes will necessarily provide excellent colour and plenty of tannin; how much mid-palate flavour remains to be seen. Just as with the Clare Valley, the Riverland and Riverina regions could not be expected to repeat the amazing 2002 vintage, which combined high yields with very high quality. Yields were down in 2003, and quality across the board is sound rather than outstanding, although red wine colour is a strong point.
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Western Australia
As always, Western Australia marched to the tune of its own drum. The Perth Hills had one of its best years on record, the cooler than normal conditions and complete absence of disease providing grapes with great colour and flavour. Following a very dry winter most vineyards in the Great Southern entered the 2003 growing season with lower than normal water reserves and low soil moisture levels. Budburst and flowering were good with warm temperatures and low wind, conditions that would normally lead to good fruit set. However, many vineyards were already in water stress at this stage leading to compromised set in some varieties (especially chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and merlot, 10-15 per cent down on estimates). The early part of the season; November through January was very good, mild and dry. Intermittent rain events in February saw botrytis infections in most whites, but a very hot spell dried out all infections resulting in generally clean, sound whites. Rainfalls increased through March with cool nights that triggered early leaf senescence so later varieties such as cabernet sauvignon struggled to achieve full ripeness. As always in such conditions, the best-managed vineyards and best sites came through the difficulties with good wines. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot and shiraz are likely to emerge on top. Margaret River shared much of the curate's egg with the Great Southern. As ever, winter rainfall was good, and moderately warm weather from veraison set the scene for an outstanding vintage. But then rain fell at the end of February, followed by warm humid weather, which led to some botrytis outbreaks. Hot weather at the start of March led to rapid maturation of the white wines, which, as for much of Australia, came off in a rush, the chardonnay doing best. From here on the reds matured slowly, harassed first by birds, and then in early April by more rain and cold weather. By this time most of the reds had been picked, but there will be considerable variation from one vineyard to the next, and also between the southern part of Margaret River on the one hand, and the middle/north on the other.
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Tasmania
Finally, Tasmania followed much the same pattern as the Great Southern. An absolutely text book summer ended with rain prior to and during vintage. The early ripening pinot noir and chardonnay varietals did best, but botrytis impacted on riesling and sauvignon blanc. | 
Sep 01 2003 | Author: James Halliday
