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Mexico

Introduction
History

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Introduction

Mexico benefits from its long links with Europe as well as having California as a nearby, accessible and influential winemaking example. This gives it a certain charm combined with some of the scientific approach so typical of its northern neighbor. Taken as a whole, these elements make for some pretty interesting vinicultural potential within a geographical and climatological setting that, in truth, is not ideally suited to Vitis vinifera.

From "Encyclopedia of Wine"
©Global Book Publishing Pty Limited 2000

History

When Hernan Cortes set out for Mexico in 1520 he was initially charged by the Crown of Spain with trying to establish worthy trade links with what was already recognized as a sophisticated and wealthy empire. It was the glint of precious metals and the promise of unimaginable wealth and power that corrupted this enterprise. The truth is that not all of the Aztec empire's peoples were happy with their rulers, and many welcomed the Spaniards as the lesser of two evils. In turn, the conquistadores found in Mexico a land in which they soon felt at home, if not entirely at ease. They set about building a large-scale facsimile of Spain, including vineyards.

Within four years of their arrival, Cortes was advocating that all Spanish settlers plant grape vines. The cooler northern region of the Viceroyalty of New Spain, as Mexico became known, was called la California, an area far better suited to viticulture than the warmer south. One of the priests charged with establishing vineyards around the missions of New Spain was Juan Ugarte and he most probably planted the first mission grapes in northern Mexico and California. In fact, the oldest surviving winery in Mexico, Bodega Marques de Aguayo was founded in 1593. Today it produces a tiny amount of wine, most of it, as is often the case in Mexico, reserved for distilling into brandy.

Brandy production and edible grapes were the most important oulet for viticulture until early in the twentieth century. Mexico might have bumbled along happily in this fashion had it not been for welcome advice from California. The Concannon family, winemakers in Livermore Valley, persuaded the Mexican government to invest in viticulture and quality varietals, many of which were shipped from Europe and planted in new settings. This groundbreaking work was followed by the insightful drive of Antonio Perelli-Minetti, who planted a considerable expanse of quality varietals in the area around Torreon.

At this point Mexican viticulture was hit by a double-barrelled blow of massive proportions that virtually undid the previous good work. First came the disaster of phylloxera, followed rapidly by the anti-establishment Mexican Revolution of 1910. It wasn't until well into the 1940s that efforts were made to improve the quality of Mexican wines. Even now, edible grapes and those destined for brandy absorb most of the efforts of viticulture in Mexico. Major world-wide producers such as Domecq, Gonzalez Byass, Hennessy and Martell all have significant investments in Mexico. Sparkling wine interests have also entered the market with not inconsiderable force, including Freixenet and Martini & Rossi. These firms pick early to ensure acidity in their grapes. Cinzano and Seagrams are equally well-established.

From "Encyclopedia of Wine"
©Global Book Publishing Pty Limited 2000